People tend to think brightly colored food tastes better than bland-looking food-even if the flavor components are identical. Color is another important aspect of processed foods. Man-made flavor additives were used mostly in baked goods, candies, and sodas until the 1950s when the demand soared for processed foods. These early food processors looked to perfume companies for guidance. The flavor industry dates back to the nineteenth century, when processed foods began to be manufactured on a large scale. The science involved in producing a pleasing aroma for shaving cream is virtually the same as that for making a palatable TV dinner, because up to 90% of taste depends on food’s aroma. Throughout the plant, flavors and scents are produced for numerous, wellknown foods and fragrances. The author visits International Flavors & Fragrances (IFF), the world’s largest flavor company, which is located in northern New Jersey. Both of these man-made additives are products of the flavor industry, which arose after World War II.

“Natural flavor” and “artificial flavor” are responsible for the taste of most processed foods. To provide a slight beef flavor, “natural flavor” was added. However, due to criticism about the high amount of cholesterol in this mix, McDonald’s switched to pure vegetable oil. Before 1990, McDonald’s fries were cooked in a mixture of 7% cotton seed oil and 93% beef tallow. The famous taste of McDonald’s fries has nothing to do with the potatoes the company uses-the fries are flavored by the cooking oil. In the past twenty-five years, Idaho has lost about half of its potato farmers. This disparity of wealth occurs because the market for potatoes is an oligopsony-a market in which a small number of buyers exert power over a large number of sellers. However, potato farmers do not share in the riches made by both the frozen-french-fry manufactures and the fast-food industry. Fastfood restaurants benefit from the competition between these companies and make a huge profit on frozen french fries. Today the french fry business is more competitive, with three major companies controlling the market.

Ray Kroc described the frozen french fry as “almost sacrosanct.” Following the war, Simplot invested in frozen food technology and, in the 1950s, began selling frozen french fries to McDonalds. During World War II, Simplot made a fortune selling dried onions and potatoes to the American military. Soon, Simplot was buying, selling, and sorting potatoes-eventually becoming the largest shipper of potatoes in the West. When he dropped out of school and left home at fifteen, he found work in a potato house. Simplot was born in 1909 and grew up working on his family’s farm in Idaho.

Fast food nation book cover